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Travels
in Europe
Michael Duffy |
This last trip to
Europe started as an idea back in January of 2001 when I decided
to take a tour of Ireland, Scotland, and the Continent. It remained
just the seed of an idea until spring when I started to work
on making it a reality. In the end, the tour ended up being
very different from what I had originally envisioned, and I
ended up working during parts of my trip. (My work offered to
pay my airfare, hotel, and food expenses in the places that
I ended up working. Really not such a bad deal!) Scotland was
cut entirely from the tour, as I'd not have had much time there.
It was just as well, as my girlfriend who was planning to meet
me there had just broken up with me. Such is life!
My first stop was
Albany, NY. This was one of the 'working' stops, and I really
did not do much exciting there - I include it in this account
to give an idea of how insane my tour really was. I was here
for three nights.
From Albany, via Chicago,
I flew to Shannon, Ireland where I rented a Fiat Punto. It was
a nice car all around. It was small, but that is what I wanted.
I drove to my first destination; Galway.
Once
I had arrived in Galway, I proceeded to look for a place to
stay. This took me West, along Galway Bay. This was the start
of a four hour ordeal, as it was a holiday, as well as the weekend
of the Galway Races. I finally found a B&B just to the west
of Barna. It was nice, but at £40 a night, it was a bit
on the high side. Once that was sorted out, I crashed for several
hours. Later that evening, I drove in to Salthill to meet with
Seamus Walshe, a button accordion player from Co. Clare. We
had a few pints and talked of music, and of people that had
inspired him to continue playing, many of whom are well know
today. I returned to his home the next day for tea, and that
rapidly continued on towards dinner. After a most wonderful
dinner and visit, I pointed my fiat to the town of Tubbercurry,
in Co. Sligo.
I
arrived in Tubbercurry in the late afternoon and proceeded directly
to the B&B (the Cruckawn House) where I would be staying
for the two nights that I would be in town. A nice place, run
by Maeve Walsh and her husband Joe. The stay there was very
nice, and Maeve had many good suggestions on where to go for
dancing and music while in the area. On Monday, I took to the
road again, driving west through Mayo,
to the towns of Westport and then Newport. From Newport, I continued
North until the sea convinced me that I should turn East, back
towards Sligo. While the drive was a long one, I thoroughly
enjoyed every minute of it, and I stopped at
many places just to take in the beauty of the Irish landscapes.
When I returned to Tubbercurry, I hooked up with Maeve and a
few of her friends, and went outside of town for a traditional
seisiún. The next morning I found myself once again on
the road, and the next stop was Carrickmacross, in Co. Monaghan.
I made a stop along the way to visit The Boyle Abby. I'm pleased
that I did, as I'm a fan of old architecture and such.
Once in Carrickmacross,
I hit the B&B, and then went back in to town for a long
walk around and then finally dinner. The next morning I visited
the town again, and then went in search of long dead relatives.
This took me to the parish of Upper Mahgeracloone,
where I visited the small church yard where I found a large
number of possible relations that had been buried there. I wish
that I had more time to spend here, but such is life, and anyone
who I wanted to speak with was out (this being a holiday and
all). From there I drove south to Dublin, and visited the Newgrange
site while on the way. Newgrange is really cool!!! I elected
to ditch the rental car at the Dublin airport, and get a taxi
in to town. (That was a very wise move!)
In
Dublin, I stayed at the Schoolhouse Inn. It's a very nice hotel,
and it actually is a renovated schoolhouse. It's on the high
end of the price scale, but it has a good restaurant and bar,
and well worth the price. It's well within walking distance
of the town center, and various point if interest. If you have
the budget, I recommend it. I visited several pubs, and a few
of them were hosting seisiúns. (Sorry, I don't have the
names) On Thursday, I went in to town and purchased a new bodhrán,
and then just walked around for a few hours. Later in the afternoon,
I meet up with a few work associates and went over some business.
That night, I hit the pubs in a further search of tunes (and
found them!). Around 10:00pm I returned to my hotel, and passed
the time in the bar. I inquired where I may find any set dancing
in Dublin. I was told that in one of the hotels across town,
they had set dancing on several nights a week. Unfortunately,
it was too late in the evening for me to make my way over. Next
time! On Friday, I was on my way to the airport. My next stop
was Grenoble, France.
The
flight to France was uneventful, and I changed aircraft in Paris,
for one going to Lyon. Once in Lyon, I had to get to Grenoble.
Supposedly an easy task. I went for the taxi to take me to the
railway station in Lyon where I could get a train to Grenoble.
Well, in the communication mix-up, I ended
up with a taxi ride to the railway station in Grenoble!!! At
that point, I figured 'whatever works is good'. I waited in
the railway station about an hour before my friends arrived
to collect
me. (I was coming by train, right?) From there we drove in to
Provence, to the village of Throad, where my friends have a
small 16th century farm house that they have been rebuilding.
It's nearly complete now, and they have done a beautiful job
of restoring the old building! I spent two nights there,
and I must say that it was the most relaxing and enjoyable part
of the tour. The people in the village were extremely friendly,
and I made many new friends.The days there were spent poking
around the village, visiting a nearby monastery, and visiting
antique shops. There are a lot of really beautiful antiques
in this area! Sunday morning found me driving to Marseilles
to get a flight to Piza, Italy.
The flight to Piza
had a stop in Milan / Malpensa to change aircraft. I had e-mailed
my friends about this to suggest that they could pick me up
in Milan if it would be simpler for them. I never did hear from
them but
While waiting at the gate for my connecting flight
to Piza, I heard over the airport intercom 'Michael Duffy, please
report the policeman on level two'. I was thinking 'what now?'
After finally giving up looking for 'level two' I inquired at
one of the information desks, and they were nice enough to call
the police to see what it was all about. It seems that my friends
had indeed come to Milan to collect me. I had only about 24
hours in Italy, so we spent time touring around, and managed
to visit some rather nice places. Monday morning I was again
off to the airport. It was Florence this time for my flight
to Geneva, Switzerland.
The flight to Geneva
was interesting to say the least. The F/O was flying the aircraft,
and it was quickly obvious that he did not have a lot of time
the make and model. The initial climb-out of Florence was with
what I would consider too high of an attack angle, making the
aircraft a bit 'mushy'. The cruise portion of the flight was
uneventful, and I spent a good part of the time speaking the
steward. The landing was terrible, and I fully expected that
the aircraft was going to be written off as we started sliding
sideways down the runway when the reverse pitch was put in to
slow us. At that point, the captain took control of the aircraft.
These things do happen. I think that I left my CD case on the
aircraft!!! Bummer!!!
While
in Geneva, I found that I again had to 'work'. I'll not go in
to the work details here. Tuesday afternoon, I went for a flight
around the Swiss Alps with a friend of mine, in his small aircraft.
It was an awesome flight and we had a great time! After the
flight, I made my way to a small Irish pub in Geneva where I
met with Christina
O'Shaughnessy, who runs a slow seisiún there on Tuesdays.
This was my first real chance to play in a seisiún since
I had left California. We had a real good time, even though
Christina said that the attendance
was light as many of the regulars were on holiday. I continued
to work through Thursday, and visited with many friends while
in the area. Friday I was again at the airport, with a destination
of Milwaukee for the last few days of the Irish Festival there.
After about 9 hours
in flight, I finally arrived in Milwaukee. I checked in to my
hotel, got my dancing shoes, and went straight to the festival
grounds. Once there, it was easy to find the dance tent where
I spent the next four hours dancing my guts out. I slept very
well Friday night! Saturday and Sunday were more of the same,
with the odd trip to go and visit the vendors of the festival,
or to play in the rare seisiún. Monday, I was once again
on a flight. This time it's San Francisco and home!
I've been home for
two weeks now, but I still have not recovered from the trip.
I'm off to Boston in two days, and I'll be there for a week.
Would I do it again? Absolutely! Yes, I'd likely change a few
things (like take more time, and perhaps not visit so many places
in Ireland, but rather find a permanent base of operations.
I'd also do a bit more research in to seisiúns and dance
before I get there!) And of course, I'd plan to spend more time
with my friends in France and Italy. Well that's about it. Until
the next time I go!
Slán,
Michael Duffy -
MPSP, CKSP |
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Fiddle
Infusion
Pat Lowers |
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If you had asked
me last month to play a tune by ear, I would have told you
I can't, that it's not possible for me because I'm tone-deaf
and can't hear the music. After one short week at Valley of
the Moon Fiddle Camp, I have reversed my opinion and my answer
is now a resounding YES, I CAN DO THAT!!!
My nerves were taut as I motored through the winding turns
of Highway 9 to Camp Campbell in the beautiful Santa Cruz
Mountains, south of San Jose. Unsure of what to expect, I
was prepared for a dismal time struggling to learn tunes by
ear while my fingers fumbled for the notes on my fiddle. I
missed the turn into camp and had to take in a bit more scenery
before turning around and finding the somewhat hidden entrance.
The road was narrow, curvy, and went uphill until I reached
the lodge where I was to unload my voluminous belongings.
After looking at the cabins, I realized there would not be
room for anyone else if I brought all that stuff inside, so
I pared it down to one large wheelbarrow load of blankets,
bags, instruments, suitcases, and such.
Primitive is a pretty apt phrase for the accommodations, but
it was not unpleasant for anyone under 5'10''. After meeting
my Marys (my roommates for the week were Mary Ann, Mary Ellen,
Mary, and Monica - I'm changing my name for next year), I
set out to see what this camp was all about. It didn't take
long to get oriented as the camp is very well laid out, with
the community bathrooms/showers just a short hike from the
cabin in one direction and the mess hall a somewhat longer
hike in the other. That turned out to be a blessing since
I needed a good hike after each hearty meal, well, really
after the desserts.
Since I was certain I could not play music by ear, I entered
the Slow Class on Saturday morning, which took place outdoors
by the picnic area. (You really can swat mosquitoes with a
violin bow.) After a bit, I realized it was too slow, so for
the next session, I attended the Moderate Class, a good idea
because it turned out to be indoors with real chairs instead
of logs to sit on. I stayed in that class all week. It was
one of the smartest moves I've ever made because every day
for six days I spent 1 ½ hours with Allistair Fraser, Martin
Hays, and Rodney Miller - each! It just doesn't get any better
than that.
It was a stretch for me since I was not used to learning by
listening and have always considered myself a visual person,
in need of pictures, words, and notes in order to function.
How we pigeonhole ourselves is quite amazing, and so unnecessary
since all I ever had to do was try it. But, I was convinced
it would not work, and so handicapped myself for years by
not exploring every possible way to learn music. That's all
in the past now and I am free to learn and play and truly
enjoy my fiddle. Somehow, I can't stop smiling.
Each day was a new adventure as I learned from these three
masters - each of whom had a very different style. Allistair
was calm and decisive, all business and let's get on with
it. Martin was dreamy and philosophical, telling us to feel
the music and don't worry about technique or rules. Rodney
was energetic and brought a fresh style of music I had not
previously encountered. He had us performing bowing drills
to show how to control the bow, and amused us with his attempts
at describing how some pieces flowed. Each man brought something
very valuable to the lesson, and each expanded my knowledge
of fiddling and of music in general. I got so much more than
my money's worth, I'm sending a check to the camp scholarship
fund to ease my guilt.
Those weren't the only classes. Ed Miller gave a wonderful
and complete history of Scottish music, plus a lot of history
of Scotland along with it. He sang to us in his beautiful
voice and shared the tunes of other Scottish singers as we
sat in a redwood grove watching the squirrels and birds frolic
in the bushes. We all sang, even me, especially after Allistair
showed me one day that I can carry a tune with my voice as
well. Ed formed a chorus calling us the Redwood Grove Singers
and we performed a couple of tunes at the ending concert.
Not only was it a thrill for me, but it amazed my friends
who were in the audience.
If that wasn't enough, there were classes in dancing, cello,
percussion, and guitar. It was way more than anyone could
possibly do, but I tried anyway. I wanted to be everywhere
and do everything - to take it all in and absorb as much as
possible in the short time we had. I'll be sleeping for the
next month to recover from my folly.
Every night, and most of the days, we jammed. And I do mean
jammed. The instructors demonstrated their styles one evening,
the rec room was rocking every night, way past my ability
to stay vertical. There was even a regular jam in the ladies
shower room - great acoustics, I understand. Where else can
you go to the toilet and be entertained by terrific musicians
rather than elevator music! Janet Kurnick offered her annual
midnight soup, and I volunteered to help as it sounded like
fun. What an understatement. First Ed Miller serenaded us
sitting on a stool in the kitchen while we chopped veggies,
then after a while Allistair and Martin showed up with their
fiddles, found some crates to sit on, were joined by an eclectic
cellist from Berkeley, a visiting fiddler of some repute,
and others. Before you knew it we were jamming to beat the
band, 50 people were crowded into that kitchen, I was playing
bodhran using a paper plate and plastic spoon, and it was
hot! (I do mean jamming hot). The session went on for a very
long time and finally dispersed into smaller sessions in other
rooms or even outside. I have no recollection of when I went
to bed that night, if at all.
The next day during lunch, Joe Craven who was the percussion
teacher, starting making rhythm noises. A few people picked
up on it, adding their own styles and before you knew it the
entire room of 250 people were beating out rhythms on anything
they could get their hands on, shaking sugar jars, tapping
cups and plates, clapping hands, you name it. Then we all
started moving in time to the rhythm, marching up and down
among the tables, on the tables, around the room. There wasn't
a bobcat left within miles of the place when we finally fell
exhausted but laughing to our seats or the floor, whichever
was handiest.
Apparently, there has been some teasing going on among the
instructors for several years and this year was the capper
of payback as Martin Hays, yes, THE Martin Hays appeared at
the dining hall one night in drag with a bodacious blonde
wig doing an imitation of one of the Slow Play teachers, Hanneke,
known for her creativity in the world of pranks. Another time,
the final episode of Survivor got a new twist as some very
talented folks parodied the show in fine fashion while managing
to also poke fun at several camp members. Humor abounded as
the skits continued with an evening of Neal Gow Meets Robert
Burns. Our own Rodney Miller donned a kilt for the very first
time. Of course, the lender of the kilt forgot to coach Rodney
in proper maneuvering while wearing a kilt and we all got
a good laugh the first time he tried to sit down. For those
who don't know Rodney, he's very tall, well over six feet,
and the kilt he borrowed belonged to a fellow somewhat shorter
than that. Use your imagination on this one.
You can't have a gathering of Scottish-minded folk without
a celeidh, so we had one. My cabin mates and I performed a
rousing rendition of the old show tune, Valley of the Moon,
with our own lyrics of course. Creativity and inventiveness
abounded as the skits were uproariously funny and plentiful.
This was interspersed with some very talented offerings by
many of the campers - from age 5 to 75.
Everything came to a climax on Friday night when 175 fiddles
took the stage at Cabrillo College in Aptos, accompanied by
cellos, guitars, percussion, piano, and singers. The air was
electric and adrenaline ran rampant as we regaled the sold-out
audience with all of the tunes we had learned all week - without
a single printed note anywhere. It was awesome! I'm sure the
roof lifted off it's foundation when we played. Rather than
end the concert, we marched off the stage, still playing and
went right out the front door pied-piper style with the audience
in tow. Music and jamming continued into the night - it may
still be going on for all I know. I do know, it's still going
on in my head, and will be for a very long time.
I can truly record this experience as one of the highlights
of my life - burned into my memory is the sight of walking
through the woods and coming upon Martin Hays standing under
a tree playing the fiddle with one of the campers, or Allistair
and Rodney standing on the dining hall porch in a dueling
fiddles jam, or Ed Miller strumming his guitar in a grove
and singing of far away and long forgotten times, or the family
with five children, each more talented than the next, or the
ten year old girl from Alaska who sat in front of me every
day and kept me informed of what the current tune was and
showed me where to place my fingers on the fiddle. That was
the best part - the coming together of people of all ages,
from varied backgrounds, with a common bond - MUSIC.
- Pat Lowers
SBSP
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Having
fun at 2003 Sebastapol Celtic Festival
Thérèse Dunne
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The weekend
got off to a great start. I went to the daytime Saturday
events where I enjoyed a medley of musical performances,
workshops and open sessions. There was an abundance
of entertainmnent for anyone with an interest in celtic
music. And the range of music was delightful, form Breton
style music with the enjoyable troupe from Quebec, "Le
Vent du Nord" to the Scottish music by the "Tannehill
Weavers". And off course, I got a chance to see the
wonderful young Irish traditional group, Danu with their
new young female singer. The day started off with the
vibrant sounds of our very own Molly's Revenge who hail
from Santa Crux. David Brewer set the tone with his
"Hawaiian bagpipes" - Dancing and playing to the crowd.
I really enjoyed the evocative voice of Nollaig Casey
and the soft strumming guitar sounds of Art McClynn.
Looking around the audience, I seen many a couple holding
hands whilst listening to this the beautifully calm
music. The open seisiun was a great way for beginning
musicians to mix with more seasoned ones in a supportive
environment. There was a sense of admiration and respect
for each musical player. Even the very experienced musicians
had the opportunity to learn new styles of music, such
as Seamus from Dervish being delighted to listen to
the French-style Accordian of "Le Vent du Nord". Yet
again, Seabastapol put on a terrific festival. And off
course, I can't wait for next year's one! I went home
with a trunk filled with new CDs!
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on: 29 August, 2001 |
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This
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Copyright © 2000 Michael
Duffy
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