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Members' Musings
Featured Articles:
Travels in Europe by Michael Duffy - A not-so-quick run-down on my last trip to Ireland and the continent.

Fiddle Infusion By Pat Lowers - Valley of the Moon Fiddle Camp, 2000

2003 Sebastapol Celtic Festival - Thérèse Dunne, Having fun at the Festival

Long Gold Braid
Travels in Europe
Michael Duffy
This last trip to Europe started as an idea back in January of 2001 when I decided to take a tour of Ireland, Scotland, and the Continent. It remained just the seed of an idea until spring when I started to work on making it a reality. In the end, the tour ended up being very different from what I had originally envisioned, and I ended up working during parts of my trip. (My work offered to pay my airfare, hotel, and food expenses in the places that I ended up working. Really not such a bad deal!) Scotland was cut entirely from the tour, as I'd not have had much time there. It was just as well, as my girlfriend who was planning to meet me there had just broken up with me. Such is life!

My first stop was Albany, NY. This was one of the 'working' stops, and I really did not do much exciting there - I include it in this account to give an idea of how insane my tour really was. I was here for three nights.

From Albany, via Chicago, I flew to Shannon, Ireland where I rented a Fiat Punto. It was a nice car all around. It was small, but that is what I wanted. I drove to my first destination; Galway.

Galway BayOnce I had arrived in Galway, I proceeded to look for a place to stay. This took me West, along Galway Bay. This was the start of a four hour ordeal, as it was a holiday, as well as the weekend of the Galway Races. I finally found a B&B just to the west of Barna. It was nice, but at £40 a night, it was a bit on the high side. Once that was sorted out, I crashed for several hours. Later that evening, I drove in to Salthill to meet with Seamus Walshe, a button accordion player from Co. Clare. We had a few pints and talked of music, and of people that had inspired him to continue playing, many of whom are well know today. I returned to his home the next day for tea, and that rapidly continued on towards dinner. After a most wonderful dinner and visit, I pointed my fiat to the town of Tubbercurry, in Co. Sligo.

CliffsI arrived in Tubbercurry in the late afternoon and proceeded directly to the B&B (the Cruckawn House) where I would be staying for the two nights that I would be in town. A nice place, run by Maeve Walsh and her husband Joe. The stay there was very nice, and Maeve had many good suggestions on where to go for dancing and music while in the area. On Monday, I took to the road again, driving west through Mayo,Rosserk Friary to the towns of Westport and then Newport. From Newport, I continued North until the sea convinced me that I should turn East, back towards Sligo. While the drive was a long one, I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of it, and I stopped Sunset at Lough Taltat many places just to take in the beauty of the Irish landscapes. When I returned to Tubbercurry, I hooked up with Maeve and a few of her friends, and went outside of town for a traditional seisiún. The next morning I found myself once again on the road, and the next stop was Carrickmacross, in Co. Monaghan. I made a stop along the way to visit The Boyle Abby. I'm pleased that I did, as I'm a fan of old architecture and such.

Once in Carrickmacross, I hit the B&B, and then went back in to town for a long walk around and then finally dinner. The next morning I visited the town again, and then went in search of long dead relatives. This took me to the parish of Upper Mounds near NewgrangeMahgeracloone, where I visited the small church yard where I found a large number of possible relations that had been buried there. I wish that I had more time to spend here, but such is life, and anyone who I wanted to speak with was out (this being a holiday and all). From there I drove south to Dublin, and visited the Newgrange site while on the way. Newgrange is really cool!!! I elected to ditch the rental car at the Dublin airport, and get a taxi in to town. (That was a very wise move!)

My Fiat PuntoIn Dublin, I stayed at the Schoolhouse Inn. It's a very nice hotel, and it actually is a renovated schoolhouse. It's on the high end of the price scale, but it has a good restaurant and bar, and well worth the price. It's well within walking distance of the town center, and various point if interest. If you have the budget, I recommend it. I visited several pubs, and a few of them were hosting seisiúns. (Sorry, I don't have the names) On Thursday, I went in to town and purchased a new bodhrán, and then just walked around for a few hours. Later in the afternoon, I meet up with a few work associates and went over some business. That night, I hit the pubs in a further search of tunes (and found them!). Around 10:00pm I returned to my hotel, and passed the time in the bar. I inquired where I may find any set dancing in Dublin. I was told that in one of the hotels across town, they had set dancing on several nights a week. Unfortunately, it was too late in the evening for me to make my way over. Next time! On Friday, I was on my way to the airport. My next stop was Grenoble, France.

The Village of Throad in Provence, FranceThe flight to France was uneventful, and I changed aircraft in Paris, for one going to Lyon. Once in Lyon, I had to get to Grenoble. Supposedly an easy task. I went for the taxi to take me to the railway station in Lyon where I could get a train to Grenoble. Well, in the communication mix-up, I Farmhouseended up with a taxi ride to the railway station in Grenoble!!! At that point, I figured 'whatever works is good'. I waited in the railway station about an hour before my friends arrived to Farmhouse Bedroomcollect me. (I was coming by train, right?) From there we drove in to Provence, to the village of Throad, where my friends have a small 16th century farm house that they have been rebuilding. It's nearly complete now, and they have done a beautiful job of restoring the old building! I spent two nights Sybille and myselfthere, and I must say that it was the most relaxing and enjoyable part of the tour. The people in the village were extremely friendly, and I made many new friends.The days there were spent poking around the village, visiting a nearby monastery, and visiting antique shops. There are a lot of really beautiful antiques in this area! Sunday morning found me driving to Marseilles to get a flight to Piza, Italy.


The flight to Piza had a stop in Milan / Malpensa to change aircraft. I had e-mailed my friends about this to suggest that they could pick me up in Milan if it would be simpler for them. I never did hear from them but… While waiting at the gate for my connecting flight to Piza, I heard over the airport intercom 'Michael Duffy, please report the policeman on level two'. I was thinking 'what now?' After finally giving up looking for 'level two' I inquired at one of the information desks, and they were nice enough to call the police to see what it was all about. It seems that my friends had indeed come to Milan to collect me. I had only about 24 hours in Italy, so we spent time touring around, and managed to visit some rather nice places. Monday morning I was again off to the airport. It was Florence this time for my flight to Geneva, Switzerland.

The flight to Geneva was interesting to say the least. The F/O was flying the aircraft, and it was quickly obvious that he did not have a lot of time the make and model. The initial climb-out of Florence was with what I would consider too high of an attack angle, making the aircraft a bit 'mushy'. The cruise portion of the flight was uneventful, and I spent a good part of the time speaking the steward. The landing was terrible, and I fully expected that the aircraft was going to be written off as we started sliding sideways down the runway when the reverse pitch was put in to slow us. At that point, the captain took control of the aircraft. These things do happen. I think that I left my CD case on the aircraft!!! Bummer!!!

Swiss Alps from a small aircraftWhile in Geneva, I found that I again had to 'work'. I'll not go in to the work details here. Tuesday afternoon, I went for a flight around the Swiss Alps with a friend of mine, in his small aircraft. It was an awesome flight and we had a great time! After the flight, I made my way to a small Irish pub in Geneva where I met with ChristinaSwiss Alps from a small aircraft O'Shaughnessy, who runs a slow seisiún there on Tuesdays. This was my first real chance to play in a seisiún since I had left California. We had a real good time, even though Christina said that the attendance was light as many of the regulars were on holiday. I continued to work through Thursday, and visited with many friends while in the area. Friday I was again at the airport, with a destination of Milwaukee for the last few days of the Irish Festival there.

After about 9 hours in flight, I finally arrived in Milwaukee. I checked in to my hotel, got my dancing shoes, and went straight to the festival grounds. Once there, it was easy to find the dance tent where I spent the next four hours dancing my guts out. I slept very well Friday night! Saturday and Sunday were more of the same, with the odd trip to go and visit the vendors of the festival, or to play in the rare seisiún. Monday, I was once again on a flight. This time it's San Francisco and home!

I've been home for two weeks now, but I still have not recovered from the trip. I'm off to Boston in two days, and I'll be there for a week. Would I do it again? Absolutely! Yes, I'd likely change a few things (like take more time, and perhaps not visit so many places in Ireland, but rather find a permanent base of operations. I'd also do a bit more research in to seisiúns and dance before I get there!) And of course, I'd plan to spend more time with my friends in France and Italy. Well that's about it. Until the next time I go!

Slán,
Michael Duffy -
MPSP, CKSP
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Long Gold Braid
Fiddle Infusion
Pat Lowers

If you had asked me last month to play a tune by ear, I would have told you I can't, that it's not possible for me because I'm tone-deaf and can't hear the music. After one short week at Valley of the Moon Fiddle Camp, I have reversed my opinion and my answer is now a resounding YES, I CAN DO THAT!!!

My nerves were taut as I motored through the winding turns of Highway 9 to Camp Campbell in the beautiful Santa Cruz Mountains, south of San Jose. Unsure of what to expect, I was prepared for a dismal time struggling to learn tunes by ear while my fingers fumbled for the notes on my fiddle. I missed the turn into camp and had to take in a bit more scenery before turning around and finding the somewhat hidden entrance. The road was narrow, curvy, and went uphill until I reached the lodge where I was to unload my voluminous belongings. After looking at the cabins, I realized there would not be room for anyone else if I brought all that stuff inside, so I pared it down to one large wheelbarrow load of blankets, bags, instruments, suitcases, and such.

Primitive is a pretty apt phrase for the accommodations, but it was not unpleasant for anyone under 5'10''. After meeting my Marys (my roommates for the week were Mary Ann, Mary Ellen, Mary, and Monica - I'm changing my name for next year), I set out to see what this camp was all about. It didn't take long to get oriented as the camp is very well laid out, with the community bathrooms/showers just a short hike from the cabin in one direction and the mess hall a somewhat longer hike in the other. That turned out to be a blessing since I needed a good hike after each hearty meal, well, really after the desserts.

Since I was certain I could not play music by ear, I entered the Slow Class on Saturday morning, which took place outdoors by the picnic area. (You really can swat mosquitoes with a violin bow.) After a bit, I realized it was too slow, so for the next session, I attended the Moderate Class, a good idea because it turned out to be indoors with real chairs instead of logs to sit on. I stayed in that class all week. It was one of the smartest moves I've ever made because every day for six days I spent 1 ½ hours with Allistair Fraser, Martin Hays, and Rodney Miller - each! It just doesn't get any better than that.

It was a stretch for me since I was not used to learning by listening and have always considered myself a visual person, in need of pictures, words, and notes in order to function. How we pigeonhole ourselves is quite amazing, and so unnecessary since all I ever had to do was try it. But, I was convinced it would not work, and so handicapped myself for years by not exploring every possible way to learn music. That's all in the past now and I am free to learn and play and truly enjoy my fiddle. Somehow, I can't stop smiling.

Each day was a new adventure as I learned from these three masters - each of whom had a very different style. Allistair was calm and decisive, all business and let's get on with it. Martin was dreamy and philosophical, telling us to feel the music and don't worry about technique or rules. Rodney was energetic and brought a fresh style of music I had not previously encountered. He had us performing bowing drills to show how to control the bow, and amused us with his attempts at describing how some pieces flowed. Each man brought something very valuable to the lesson, and each expanded my knowledge of fiddling and of music in general. I got so much more than my money's worth, I'm sending a check to the camp scholarship fund to ease my guilt.

Those weren't the only classes. Ed Miller gave a wonderful and complete history of Scottish music, plus a lot of history of Scotland along with it. He sang to us in his beautiful voice and shared the tunes of other Scottish singers as we sat in a redwood grove watching the squirrels and birds frolic in the bushes. We all sang, even me, especially after Allistair showed me one day that I can carry a tune with my voice as well. Ed formed a chorus calling us the Redwood Grove Singers and we performed a couple of tunes at the ending concert. Not only was it a thrill for me, but it amazed my friends who were in the audience.

If that wasn't enough, there were classes in dancing, cello, percussion, and guitar. It was way more than anyone could possibly do, but I tried anyway. I wanted to be everywhere and do everything - to take it all in and absorb as much as possible in the short time we had. I'll be sleeping for the next month to recover from my folly.

Every night, and most of the days, we jammed. And I do mean jammed. The instructors demonstrated their styles one evening, the rec room was rocking every night, way past my ability to stay vertical. There was even a regular jam in the ladies shower room - great acoustics, I understand. Where else can you go to the toilet and be entertained by terrific musicians rather than elevator music! Janet Kurnick offered her annual midnight soup, and I volunteered to help as it sounded like fun. What an understatement. First Ed Miller serenaded us sitting on a stool in the kitchen while we chopped veggies, then after a while Allistair and Martin showed up with their fiddles, found some crates to sit on, were joined by an eclectic cellist from Berkeley, a visiting fiddler of some repute, and others. Before you knew it we were jamming to beat the band, 50 people were crowded into that kitchen, I was playing bodhran using a paper plate and plastic spoon, and it was hot! (I do mean jamming hot). The session went on for a very long time and finally dispersed into smaller sessions in other rooms or even outside. I have no recollection of when I went to bed that night, if at all.

The next day during lunch, Joe Craven who was the percussion teacher, starting making rhythm noises. A few people picked up on it, adding their own styles and before you knew it the entire room of 250 people were beating out rhythms on anything they could get their hands on, shaking sugar jars, tapping cups and plates, clapping hands, you name it. Then we all started moving in time to the rhythm, marching up and down among the tables, on the tables, around the room. There wasn't a bobcat left within miles of the place when we finally fell exhausted but laughing to our seats or the floor, whichever was handiest.

Apparently, there has been some teasing going on among the instructors for several years and this year was the capper of payback as Martin Hays, yes, THE Martin Hays appeared at the dining hall one night in drag with a bodacious blonde wig doing an imitation of one of the Slow Play teachers, Hanneke, known for her creativity in the world of pranks. Another time, the final episode of Survivor got a new twist as some very talented folks parodied the show in fine fashion while managing to also poke fun at several camp members. Humor abounded as the skits continued with an evening of Neal Gow Meets Robert Burns. Our own Rodney Miller donned a kilt for the very first time. Of course, the lender of the kilt forgot to coach Rodney in proper maneuvering while wearing a kilt and we all got a good laugh the first time he tried to sit down. For those who don't know Rodney, he's very tall, well over six feet, and the kilt he borrowed belonged to a fellow somewhat shorter than that. Use your imagination on this one.

You can't have a gathering of Scottish-minded folk without a celeidh, so we had one. My cabin mates and I performed a rousing rendition of the old show tune, Valley of the Moon, with our own lyrics of course. Creativity and inventiveness abounded as the skits were uproariously funny and plentiful. This was interspersed with some very talented offerings by many of the campers - from age 5 to 75.

Everything came to a climax on Friday night when 175 fiddles took the stage at Cabrillo College in Aptos, accompanied by cellos, guitars, percussion, piano, and singers. The air was electric and adrenaline ran rampant as we regaled the sold-out audience with all of the tunes we had learned all week - without a single printed note anywhere. It was awesome! I'm sure the roof lifted off it's foundation when we played. Rather than end the concert, we marched off the stage, still playing and went right out the front door pied-piper style with the audience in tow. Music and jamming continued into the night - it may still be going on for all I know. I do know, it's still going on in my head, and will be for a very long time.

I can truly record this experience as one of the highlights of my life - burned into my memory is the sight of walking through the woods and coming upon Martin Hays standing under a tree playing the fiddle with one of the campers, or Allistair and Rodney standing on the dining hall porch in a dueling fiddles jam, or Ed Miller strumming his guitar in a grove and singing of far away and long forgotten times, or the family with five children, each more talented than the next, or the ten year old girl from Alaska who sat in front of me every day and kept me informed of what the current tune was and showed me where to place my fingers on the fiddle. That was the best part - the coming together of people of all ages, from varied backgrounds, with a common bond - MUSIC.

- Pat Lowers
   SBSP


Having fun at 2003 Sebastapol Celtic Festival
Thérèse Dunne

 

The weekend got off to a great start. I went to the daytime Saturday events where I enjoyed a medley of musical performances, workshops and open sessions. There was an abundance of entertainmnent for anyone with an interest in celtic music. And the range of music was delightful, form Breton style music with the enjoyable troupe from Quebec, "Le Vent du Nord" to the Scottish music by the "Tannehill Weavers". And off course, I got a chance to see the wonderful young Irish traditional group, Danu with their new young female singer. The day started off with the vibrant sounds of our very own Molly's Revenge who hail from Santa Crux. David Brewer set the tone with his "Hawaiian bagpipes" - Dancing and playing to the crowd. I really enjoyed the evocative voice of Nollaig Casey and the soft strumming guitar sounds of Art McClynn. Looking around the audience, I seen many a couple holding hands whilst listening to this the beautifully calm music. The open seisiun was a great way for beginning musicians to mix with more seasoned ones in a supportive environment. There was a sense of admiration and respect for each musical player. Even the very experienced musicians had the opportunity to learn new styles of music, such as Seamus from Dervish being delighted to listen to the French-style Accordian of "Le Vent du Nord". Yet again, Seabastapol put on a terrific festival. And off course, I can't wait for next year's one! I went home with a trunk filled with new CDs!

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 Last updated on: 29 August, 2001
 
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